

Nowhere to go” – also from H&M – is simply trivialising the poverty and hardship that for many is a reality, not a fashion statement to be bought for £25 a pop. An orange hoody bearing the slogan “Nothing to do. Mainstream brands are not in a position to be edgy. While Wu agrees that H&M has a “global responsibility” as an employer, she says: “We are still a fashion company, so we do want to push the envelope a little bit to catch these trends and things that still happen.” In November 2017, the company sold a T-shirt with the slogan “Unemployed” on it, which was quickly withdrawn. “If you hire more black people and cultivate an environment where people on all levels of the company feel comfortable to speak up, incidents like this will be avoided,” commented The Glowboss the Coolest Monkey incident was not the first time H&M offended. It took 10 hours for Gucci to respond, also on Twitter: “We are fully committed to increasing diversity throughout our organisation and turning this incident into a powerful learning moment for the Gucci team and beyond,” read their statement. Happy Black History Month y’all,” wrote Twitter-user Rashida. Most recently, Gucci apologised for its polo neck jumper and balaclava combo, featuring a cut-out around the mouth outlined with thick red lips that was labelled “Blackface”. It’s not just the high street either: luxury brands Prada, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana have all had high-profile incidents where, between them, they have managed to alienate more than half the world’s population. It’s not just H&M – Zara, too, has courted controversy in recent years after selling items emblazoned with Pepe the Frog and swastikas, among other missteps. The demand for a more transparent fashion industry is making it very difficult for brands to make these “mistakes”.

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